Everest - The First Ascent. The untold story of Griffith Pugh, the man who made it possible, Paperback/Harriet Tuckey

A doctor and physiologist, Griffith Pugh revolutionised almost every aspect of British high-altitude mountaineering, transforming the climbers' attitude to oxygen, the clothes they wore, their equipment, fluid intake and acclimatisation. Yet, far from receiving the acclaim he was due, he was met with suspicion and ridicule.